Negotiating the tides en-route to the Orkney Isles

Friday  17/5/19

We departed at 0830 and had an uneventful trip north. We had been warned on channel 10 about extensive activity southwest of Wick around a huge wind farm that was under construction, the largest in the Scotland - Beatrice Wind Farm. A service ship was dIgging a trench and laying cables as we approached.  Two guard vessels called us to warn of the activity ahead which was backed up by a message on channel 12.  Very polite but the message was clear: keep well away. We did. This is a real feat of engineering and is being carried out in the often hostile environment of the North Sea. Take a look at https://www.beatricewind.com for more info.

The range rings on the radar are set at 3 nms. The expanse of the wind farm can be clearly seen. 

The leisurely departure allowed plenty of time to contemplate the trip ahead. Reading the almanac sets the scene nicely regarding the perils of navigating these waters. “Tide flows strongly around and through the Orkney Islands. The Pentland Firth is a dangerous area for all craft, tidal flows reach 12kts....Tide races or dangerous seas occur at the entrance to most of the firths or sounds....” (Reeds Nautical Almanac 2019). On top of this, tales abound of boats lost, wild seas and the generally unforgiving nature of the place. A few years ago I visited John O’Groat where they have an informative sculpture consisting of huge boulders that have been rolled along the sea bed and, over time, beautifully smoothed by the abrasive action - a salutary reminder to take this place seriously. (For more info see https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/nomadic-boulders-sculpture-unveiled-at-john-ogroats-155101/). Getting your arrival timed correctly and choosing an appropriate weather window are essential for a smooth and safe passage. Unfortunately, the right time in one area is not necessarily the right time in an area you may then wish to travel to. We planned to be at Pentland Skerries as near to slack water as possible.  This worked well and we negotiated this area, where the tides have been known to run up to 16kts, without incident. The only testing time was prior to the entrance into Stromness when the tide that had been running at about half a knot suddenly increased to 5.3kts on the beam and then just as quickly subsided after a few minutes of my trying to sort out the correct course to steer.

The route we took to Stromness passed through Scapa Flow which served a a naval bases during WWI and WW2. A brief resumé of the history surrounding Scapa Flow can be found here and is well worth a read.  http://www.scapaflowwrecks.com/resources/scapa-flow-history-timeline.pd

The buildings reflect the harsh environment in which they sit.

The town of Stromness has a brutal feel about it which is in stark contrast to the gentle, treeless rolling hills in which it nestles. 

We walked the town, had a beer in a busy pub but couldn't find anywhere enticing to eat so returned to the boat for food. I say food, but the fare was not to the normally high standards we had enjoyed to date.....

I was awoken at 0540 by a call from the lady who runs the marina to remind me that we needed to move before 0800 because a cruise ship tender required our spot. I’m not sure what she thought of my seamanship skills but 2:20 hrs to move to a different pontoon is generous, even for me! Still, she was friendly and we were happy to oblige.  

We departed at 0920 en-route to Kinlochbervie on the west coast of Scotland.